1971 FJ40 Landcruiser **FOR SALE**

1971 TOYOTA FJ40 LANDCRUISER TRUCK

This '71 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser is now officially for sale. I'm listing it locally, on craigslist, and on eBay. I reserve the right to end this sale at anytime, for any reason.

I'd like to get $18,000 for this truck.

This would be a great summer truck. Please see my other posts, and pictures. I've tried to be as complete and honest as I can about this truck. Please ask any questions, and I'll do my best to answer them.

I took more pics and videos, and I decided to just incorporate them all into one VIDEO. Hope you find this helpful.

Here is the VIDEO for my truck that is for sale:

71 FJ40 TRUCK FOR SALE
http://youtu.be/4kOiGpJqPrQ

If you have any questions or wish to discuss this vehicle, please contact me by email at:

ARCALLC(AT)GMAIL(D0T)C0M

or by phone at:

(8FIVE8)FOUR7TWO-SEVENsevenSEVEN9

Thank you for considering this sale.

This '71 FJ40 Landcruiser is great. But.. it's not perfect.

Here is a list of things that are not perfect, or projects-in-progress:

(1) Roof/Dome

This has a fiberglass dome. It's a classic look for the FJ40 line, and is making a comeback in the newer Toyota FJ Cruiser line, and even other cars like the Ford Flex.

This particular truck, has a bare dome. It bolts on and is easily removed. It is unfinished, and rough, but intact. It does not have any holes or cracks in it. My plan was to remove it, and clean it thoroughly, sand it, reseal entire surface with new resin. Sand it again. Primer and white paint. I wasn't planning on using the Toyota matching Cygnus White.. just using a fiberglass-approved marine-grade bright white paint to give it that *POP*.

Never got around to it.

I have a new can of fiberglass resin, epoxy primer, and Rustoleum white paint. All unopened. They come with the truck.

The undersurface of this fiberglass dome is also bare. I have a foam covering (I think it's called a "header), but in researching it, I've read that these are notorious for eventually falling down no matter what glue you use. I will include the foam header covering, but it looks a bit cheap and faded by now. My plan, which I think would look great and be super durable, was to use two-tone epoxy paint that is sprayed on.. it's call ZOLATONE, and looks pretty easy to apply. It's very durable, and people even use this coating for runners and bedliner in trucks. I was thinking Silver-Gray, or Gray-Stone. Check it out here:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/zolatone20.aspx?gclid=CNnRheqgqLYCFY5_Qgodfi8AlQ

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/search.aspx?searchvalue=ZOL+20-72

I did not get any of this stuff yet. I need a bigger air compressor and HVLP spray gun setup, which I don't have.

(2) Rear Bench Seat

The rear bench seat is by Bestop. It folds down, and then flips forward. It's not super wide, and realistically, only 2 people could sit back there.. maybe. Definitely 3 would be tight. I had visions of putting in a wider bench seat for my 3 kids, but that turned out to be a very expensive custom job. Right now, the bench is back there in it's original condition. The forward mounting pins are in place, and the bench will slide onto those pins. Each side, needs a cotter pin to retain it. I think I have them, but might not. It's an easy Home Depot find.

The rear of the bench seat rests on the carpeted floor. There are locking brackets that can be installed. I just never got around to doing it. This would involve bolting thru the floor, which should be pretty easy. Lots of clearance underneath! Hardware is included and will come with the truck, if you want to do this.

The bench itself, needs to have the vinyl upholstery repaired. There are no tears or holes, but, the zipper was cut to remove it when I was thinking I was going to have it modified. If you are handy with sewing, you could probably fix this yourself. The vinyl fabric itself is intact.

(3) Body

Minor dings and dents, and rust spots. Should mostly be easy things to fix.

Color is: Chrysler Chili-Pepper Red.

The doors swing open wide, and will move the mirrors. There are supposed to be door limiters that stop the door, but I never found it worth getting done. There are cheap ways to do this with leather straps, and the more expensive Spector Off-Road parts, which are a bit more complicated to install.

(4) Transmission

Nothing wrong here. It's a GM Turbo Hydromatic 400 (TH400) transmission, mated to a Dana Spicer 20 transfer case. It works fine. There is a small, very slow, occasional drip from the transfer case. I don't know how to stop that, and I've been told that most vehicles of this vintage have a drop of something, somewhere. It's to be expected. Shouldn't be a deal breaker?

(5) Glass

Tiny rock chip in front windshield, driver-side. Does not interfere with vision, and has not cracked or expanded. I'd just leave it be, but it could be repaired or replaced. There are posts about how to replace this glass windshield, you can Google or search IH8Mud.com to learn more.

(6) Wipers

I never drove this truck in the rain. These trucks have 2 wiper motors, that run independent of each other, and are therefore.. never in sync. It won't happen. The driver side wiper, seems to work ok, but sometimes it seems lethargic and weak compared to the passenger side wiper. I was thinking of tearing the both down side by side, to try and get them both working good. But, it's a big project with lots of small parts to lose. I decided against it, and figured I might swap them, and put the "better" passenger wiper motor on the driver side. I'm in Southern California, so it was pretty easy for me to just avoid driving it in the rain. If you live in rainy weather, you may want to swap the motors, or try finding a replacement, or try rebuilding/fixing this.

(7) Wheels

These are big tires. Toyo MT Open Country 33". They have Earl Scheib Ultra wheels, that are shiny aluminum. There is some minor pitting, and what looks like rust.. especially on the FRONT. I don't know why it's more on the front. It should polish off to a nice aluminum shine with a little elbow grease. I think there might be some kind of reaction going on with the front disc brake dust causing some oxidation? Not sure.. it's all I can think of as to why the front wheels seem to look a little worse than the rear.

By the way, there is NO SPARE TIRE. No rear bumper spare tire rack.

(8) Accessories

I have the soft doors (x2), and a Bestop bikini top. These are for when you want to take the hardtop off completely, and also remove the hard doors. You can drive it with no doors at all (Army Jeep-style), or put on these flimsy soft doors. I've never done this, never removed the hard top. So, I can't say for sure how it all works or fits together, but I have the parts, and they obviously come with the truck. They should work fine.. I assume.

(9) Auxiliary Fuel Tank - DONE!

There is a huge auxiliary fuel tank, custom made. It was dropped out, and cleaned. It has internal baffles, and is very nicely made. It had a very old non-working fuel sender. I put in a brand new universal fuel sender (I believe by AutoMeter). It's wired to a solenoid fuel-selector valve along the passenger side frame rail. There is a switch in the dash to go between MAIN and AUX. It works. I just checked it.

As of right now, that's all that I can think of that needs to be done to this truck. It's good to go as a daily driver, right now!